UKRG Event: “Kanwe, Acquirem & Howe
LLP!”: Museums, acquisitions and the Law
National
Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh, Friday 21st April 2017
Talk: "Fashion and Style at National
Museums Scotland: Acquiring Contemporary Fashion", Georgina Ripley, Curator, Modern
& Contemporary Fashion & Textiles, National Museums Scotland
In the realm of acquisitions most of us are familiar with gifts, bequests,
and purchases from dealers or auction houses. When it comes to expanding a
collection of modern fashion, there are other, less travelled avenues into
which you can delve, each with their own unique challenges and unusual procedures.
The closing talk of the event was given by Georgina
Ripley, Curator, Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles, National
Museums Scotland. With a collection of international significance and the third
largest collection in the UK, expanding the modern part of the museum’s textile
and fashion collection has required a more creative approach in the pursuit of
new items.
Going directly to designers is one of the ways in which
Georgina has sought out new pieces for the collection. Approaching the designers
in this way and developing the relationships with them has led to the museum
acquiring better pieces, styling them faithfully with the help of the designers
for display. Previously they had more access to watered down versions of
catwalk pieces, but by heading directly to the designers they have been able to
acquire better examples of their work and enhance the collection. However in
some cases the museum has missed potential acquisitions because of the
difficulties in contacting the designers, competing for their attention during busy
periods in the run up to fashion weeks. Knowing that the designers work to
schedules six months in advance and understanding when fashion weeks fall can
help to ensure you don’t miss out.
One of the acquisition channels that many of us would be
familiar with on a personal rather than professional level are websites such as
Ebay and Net-a-Porter. For the acquisition of shoes Net-a-Porter has provided
an invaluable resource for the museum, yet it has also presented challenges regarding
payments and invoicing, as well as use of images. As a large retail brand it
has been difficult to find a suitable contact to help resolve these issues, and
required a lot of perseverance on the part of the curators. Ebay, despite their
deadlines for bids and the risk of being outbid at the very last minute has
also provided some key acquisitions. Items can however be hard to authenticate,
and with our increasing emphasis on due diligence this can be a concern for
registrars.
Whilst these new means of acquiring items for the
collection are still being established the museum’s approach has had to be
flexible at times, but it has also been important and possible to uphold the
practices and procedures that the registrars strive to maintain. With
shipments, for example, designers would pack the items as they would for a
customer. The museum found a compromise by sourcing a courier company that also
works with museums in order to please both parties. As Georgina concluded, it
is important not to lose sight of the museum processes and that the registrars
become your best friends at this time, guiding you through what can be done to
get these items safely into your care.
Francesca Sidhu, Exhibitions Manager, Victoria and Albert
Museum
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